Comedogenic Ingredients: What Acne-Prone Skin Should Avoid

If you have acne-prone skin, you may have noticed that certain products seem to be more acne-provoking than others. This is referred to as comedogenicity, or the likelihood of a substance to clog pores. A rating system has been developed for each ingredient.

This system is not flawless, but it can provide guidance when choosing products. 

The comedogenicity scale ranges from 0 to 5, with 5 being the most likely to clog pores. A rating of 0 to 1 is considered a low comedogenic ingredient. Ingredients with a score of 2 to 3 are moderately comedogenic. Highly comedogenic ingredients receive scores of 4 to 5. Using these scores can help you avoid breakouts, but this rating system is not fool-proof.

The comedogenicity scale only applies to products that stay on the skin, like lotions and serums. Other products do not remain on the skin long enough to clog pores, though irritation can still occur due to sensitivities to particular ingredients. The amount of the ingredient also matters. A highly comedogenic ingredient can be diluted by other ingredients that are low in comedogenicity and will not be likely to cause any issues. It is wise to check the first 5 to 6 ingredients on the ingredients list for comedogenicity, since these ingredients make up the majority of the product.

The way that each ingredient is tested leads this scale to be overly critical. Most testing is done using rabbits by applying the ingredient in different concentrations to the inside of the rabbit’s ear and monitoring for signs of clogged pores. This is inaccurate when the results are applied to people since rabbit skin is more sensitive, leading to false high comedogenicity. In human testing, the ingredient is applied to the skin on the back, which doesn’t accurately represent facial skin. However, the testing area is then occluded, or covered, which dramatically increases the likelihood of comedogenic reactions and can once again lead to false positives. These testing methods result in a scale that truly represents low comedogenic ingredients, but potentially over-inflates the comedogenicity of high scoring ingredients. 

The quality of the ingredients can also impact the comedogenicity of the substance. For example, oils may contain higher or lower amounts of certain fatty acids that can lead to clogged pores. Choosing reputable companies with good suppliers can help reduce the chance of purchasing a product that may cause a breakout. Furthermore, standardization of ingredients can also reduce the chance of comedogenicity, but this often leads to less natural, more refined ingredients.

Using this scale as a loose guide can help you choose products to keep your skin clear and vibrant. When shopping, focus on the top 5 ingredients on the list, since the other ingredients are diluted enough to negate their comedogenic effects. It’s important to note that each person reacts differently to each ingredient, so some people may be absolutely fine with ingredients that cause severe acne in others. Therefore, it is advisable to test each new product for 4 to 6 weeks before adding another new product, so if any issues occur the cause can be easily identified. Make sure this test period is accurate by changing one skincare product at a time to avoid conflating the effects of several new products.

All this being said, some of the least comedogenic oils include sweet almond oil, argan oil, camellia oil, hemp seed oil, rosehip oil, sea buckthorn oil, and sunflower oil. These ingredients are generally safe for most people. Highly comedogenic ingredients include isopropyl isostearate, myristyl myristate, oleth-3, laureth-4, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, cocoa butter, and coconut butter. 

Beef tallow, a popular ingredient in skincare products, ranks at a 2, meaning that it has a 40% chance of causing clogged pores. However, the purity of the tallow influences the extent to which this ingredient is comedogenic. Like any ingredient, it’s important to test the product for at least 4 to 6 weeks before drawing conclusions about the impact it has on your skin. 

Explore our podcast to learn more about natural health. Schedule an appointment with Renewed Hope Nutrition for personalized natural health suggestions, functional lab interpretations, and nutritional support.